We drove a lot in Day 3, so I included the pics from Day 4 as well in this one. We stayed at the Bed & Breakfast at the St Bernardus Brewey (my favorite Belgian Beer,) and were treated like kings by Jacki. Then Marko gave us a quick tour of the brewery, showing us how they’re actually expanding operations. This place still works off of a single mash barrel still! It was great to meet some of the folks there, and the B&B was quite awesome. Then it was time to hit the road and head to northern France, and we were lucky enough to find a good hotel in St Mere’ Eglese, which is where some of the first paratroopers landed on D-Day. We hit the road for what would be about a 6 hour trip, and were hit with nastry rainstorms throughout the ride.
We checked-in to the room, then walked into town to get the lay of the land and a quick bite to eat. When we returned, we sat at the bar for a couple of beers, and met a couple of chaps from the UK. We chatted them up about our trip and theirs. which they were doing all on bicycle (crazy!) We all compared notes, which was great because they suggested a couple of places that we probably would have skipped otherwise.
In the morning, we hit the Airborne museum in St Mere’ Eglese, which had some pretty cool pieces. Then we checked out the beautifully simple church in the town square. If you’ve seen the movie “The Longest Day”, this is the church that Red Buttons’ character got hung-up on, and the actual soldier’s predicament is portrayed by a dummy hanging from the roof. Once we’d finished there, we headed toward Utah Beach, taking the back roads to get a taste of the scenery. This netted us a wonderful find though, as we came up right behind the beach, which was littered with German bunkers and emplacements. Even though the weather was nasty, we started climbing around the hills, and walked along the line of structures, seeing some truly impressive structures. They kept appearing as we drove along too, and a few that we stopped at were very impressive to experience. At the end of the road was the Utah museum, which we only roamed around the outside to see some of the memorials etc, plus, Carentan was next!
Many soldiers lost their lives heading into Carentan. There were only a couple of ways in, via what’s known as a ‘draw’, which are basically roads in small valleys leading all the way into town. The Germans setup machine gun nests and even cannons that were homed right in on these draws. One of these draws, where “Dead Man’s Corner” appears, was quickly deemed “The Purple Heart Highway” because of how many men were slaughtered. You don’t really understand what happened by simply reading about it, but seeing these draws, and how they flooded both sides of it to funnel the soldiers down a very narrow path that also included FOUR bridges to cross, it just had to be terrible.
Carentan was quite lovely, but yet again, the weather just didn’t play very nice. They have some informational signs around the town center, which filled us in on where some events took place, but one location we couldn’t miss was their church, which was built in the 15th century. It’s enormous and incredibly striking, with detailed craftsmanship throughout. I’ll let the pictures speak for themselves though. It was interesting though that it just felt like an old castle or something, with kind-of a dirty, cold, and unforgiving sense. I’m so glad we got to see it.
Once we had a quick lunch, it was time to see the German cemetery at La Cambe. The feeling you get it so much darker than the others we’ve visited. Over 21,000 German soldiers are buried here, with most graves holding two men, one known and one unknown. In the middle is a huge hill with a statue atop it. It’s not just a hill though, but instead is a burial mound. It’s a beautiful site, and truly must be visited if you’re ever in the area. We were surprised to find out that it was originally an American cemetery, but they were all moved to the main site in 1948.
Our last stop for the night in terms of battle sites is one of the most interesting, the Maisy Battery. It’s a privately owned site that was only discovered in 2004, and holds a lot of answers to how things actually went down on D-Day. It was always understood that Point Du Hoc was one of the major defensive points and was the US Number 1 target. But this may have all been a strategic decoy, reinforced by propaganda films released by the Nazis. It’s being discovered now that the battery outside of Grandcamp Maisy was actually the regional HQ for many of the Nazi companies, and held over 800 soldiers and numerous structures, less than a 3rd to have been unearthed so far.
The theory (with more and more facts proving it) is that the Nazis made Point du Hoc out to look like they’re “prized jewel” to get the Allies to focus on it, but that the facilities at the Maisy Battery were actually one of the larger HQ’s in the area. The owner is releasing a book in November, with records and even accounts from 3 US Rangers that liberated the battery. We talked to Dan, the owner’s son, who gave us some astonishing info on the site and surrounding areas. This is definitely a book that I can’t wait for!
When we were done, we tried to find a hotel in Beyoux, but nothing was available, and we got a fair amount of attitude from the guy at the Hotel Churchill. Luckily though, we happened upon a great little place outside of Arromanches, where we had a fantastic dinner and restful sleep.
Tune in for more on our travels along the coast through Omaha Beach, Point du Hoc, and MUCH more. We saw some truly amazing stuff!